Kayak Fishing for Halibut, My Thoughts
By Todd Groessl
Growing up just north of Santa Barbara, fishing for California halibut
has been a part of my life since I was very young; there is no better
sport fish to target throughout the year. Halibut have always been my
father's favorite species to pursue, both for its prestige and
more so for its succulent meat. He had me catching them at an early age,
but it was not until my teenage years that I began to appreciate the
tactics and knowledge it takes to catch these elusive and prestigious
fish. To this day both my father and I love fishing for halibut; there
is nothing more exciting than seeing a huge, brown beast come to color
next to the boat. This is something that I hope everyone will get to
experience in their lifetime, so here are some ideas to help you find
your trophy.
The first step in catching a California halibut is to understand the
fish. Halibut, sand dwelling fish that are masters of camouflage, lie in
wait on sandy bottoms looking for the opportunity to ambush an
unsuspecting meal. Although they prefer a sandy bottom, they may also be
found in muddy and hard bottom areas such as gravel, clam, and sand
dollar beds. Ranging from Magdalena Bay in Baja to British Columbia,
they can be found from the shallowest beaches and bays to 500+ feet of
water. They were once believed to a lazy feeder and scavenger, but they
are actually aggressive predators. They mostly rely on ambush tactics;
however, they have been observed jumping completely out of the water
while chasing bait fish as well as using reefs and shoreline to
collectively corner schools of bait fish while attacking with lightning
speed. Although a large portion of their diet consists of sardines and
anchovies, halibut are an opportunistic feeder that will eat anything
within its range including mackerel, smelt, grunion, herring, perch,
tom-cod, lizard fish, and squid. To setup for a deadly ambush they often
use areas where their prey congregate such as reefs, rock plies, drop
offs, kelp holdfasts, eel grass and even lobster traps. These
reactionary predators highly rely on sight and vibration to hone in on
their prey. In spring and fall the California halibut move into shallow
water and bays to spawn, though actual spawning time depends on location
and water temperatures. Halibut are not known to make extensive
migrations.
With this knowledge, a strategy can put together to target these
seemingly elusive fish. First and foremost, while fishing for halibut
you must be on or near the bottom. Thorough knowledge of your local
terrain will make you a more effective hunter; become familiar with
reefs, kelp, eel grass, hard bottom, drop offs, and depressions where
halibut like to lay in wait. In an unknown area it is best to fish in
large sand patches or sandy beaches to avoid snags in reefs and kelp.
Well placed sand patches next to structure or drop offs are fish havens
and can hold multiple halibut throughout a single day. Many halibut are
also taken from the open sandy areas found off many of
California's shorelines; in these open areas there are no specific
structures for the fish to congregate around so you never really know
where they may be. This is the type of area that I so often target, wide
open sand. So how do you find them? Cover ground! I have had very good
success covering large areas of sand until I find a "zone" where the
fish are congregating. I have found these zones to be very depth
oriented; a difference in just 5 feet of water can make all the
difference in where the fish are located. Many times the fish will
seemingly be stacked on top of each other; once you find a hot zone the
fishing can be spectacular! We will get back to this topic after we
cover the basics.
Effective methods of halibut fishing include drifting, casting, and
trolling using live bait, plastic lures, hard baits, and jigs. The most
utilized method is drifting with live bait. Using the wind to push the
kayak and cover ground, live bait is weighted to keep it near the
bottom. There are many ways to set up live bait rig for halibut; the
most common method is a sliding egg sinker and a swivel, just like a
Carolina rig. Use a swivel on the main line to keep the egg sinker from
sliding onto the 2-4 foot leader. Another method, and my favorite, is
the Reverse Dropper Loop; a dropper loop is tied in the line in order to
attach a torpedo sinker, leaving a 3 foot loose end to tie the hook.
This set up gives a fixed amount of line between the hook and the
sinkers so that the bait cannot swim far from the weight, keeping the
bait in a small area ready for an easy ambush; for this reason I use
short leader lengths of 3 feet or less. The other benefit of the dropper
loop is that torpedo sinkers can be easily changed by pushing the "loop"
through the ring of the sinker and then putting the sinker through the
"loop". The amount of weight needed to stay on the bottom depends on the
speed of the drift, the diameter your line, and the type of bait being
used. For most situations, 2-6 oz will be enough to stay on the bottom.
Traditional halibut fishermen drift live bait while their reels are in
free spool, when a halibut bites, they "feed" the bait to it by letting
out line. They then engage the drag and set the hook. I do not agree
with this method. A halibut is an aggressive feeder that inhales bait
with lightning speed, and if it does not like what it has bitten it can
spit it out just as fast. I most often fish with the reel in gear; when
a bite is detected, quickly reel in the slack. Continue reeling until
you feel the rod load up with the weight of the fish. At this point you
can set the hook if you must; however, if your hooks are sharp it will
hook itself, you are better off just reeling to maintain pressure on the
fish. If you miss the hook up, stop reeling and wait for a couple of
seconds to see if it returns. If it does not, drop the reel into free
spool and let the bait fall to the bottom and sit in one place; the
halibut may return for it, or you might have lost your bait in the first
attack. I have caught more fish on the kayak using live bait than any
other method, including my biggest halibut which was caught on a dropper
looped Spanish mackerel.
Lures are another effective method of catching halibut. Plastics,
hard baits, and jigs will entice a halibut to bite. In shallow waters
crank baits can be deadly. Halibut really seem to like skinny minnow
type lures; they don't appear to be picky as long as the lure
wiggles well and stays near the bottom. Deep diving lures, such as the
Yozuri Crystal Minnow DD and the Berkley Frenzy Minnow, will catch many
halibut if cast or trolled so that they occasionally kiss the sandy
bottom. The lures that work the best are the ones that stay near the
bottom maximizing the amount of time in the strike zone. Swimbaits and
their predecessor, the twin tail Scampi, have also taken a considerable
amount of trophy fish. If weighted properly and bounced or cranked along
the bottom they will certainly entice a bite, especially if adorned with
a strip of squid or even whole bait. Plastics in the 3.5-6 inch range
are commonly used with lead heads from 0.5-3 oz, depending on the depth
you are fishing. My favorite setup is a 5 inch MC Swimbait on a 1.5 oz
lead head with eyes. This combination works well in 25-100 feet of water
as long as you are not drifting too quickly. Using this lure, I once
caught a 12 and 20 pound halibut on back to back casts. Of course
fishing next to any sand found adjacent to a structure will be
effective, but casting this lure down a drop off and cranking it back up
it, while re-dropping every 3-6 cranks has proven to be deadly for me.
Finally, there are jigs and the one lure often overlooked but effective
for catching large halibut, a Bucktail or Striper jig. Bucktail have an
enticing profile, hold bait scents well, and stay near the bottom
easily, but most importantly halibut like them. Just like with plastics,
adding a strip of squid or bait can increase bites, as can adding a grub
or Scampi tail. Bucktails also work very well when dropped straight down
near the bottom and dead-sticked in a rod holder, allowing the rocking
of the boat to impart a bobbing action on the lure.
Fishing for halibut does not require high tech or expensive gear, but a
few small details will greatly increase the amount of fish you will
catch. First, your reel should have smooth drags. Halibut are not
intense fighters, but smooth drags will help to keep fish hooked while
they shake their head and take short fast runs. Smooth drags are also
very important for my next suggestion: use SPECTRA as the mainline. Its
lack of stretch and low diameter is ideal for this kind of fishing and
far more effective than monofilament. It will allow you to feel every
bite and let you use less weight to stay down near the bottom. In
addition, a level wind reel will do wonders for casting Spectra by
laying the line nicely on the reel during the retrieve as well as
minimizing the contact of your skin and the line, reducing the cuts and
abrasions Spectra may cause. My preference for casting with Spectra is a
Calcutta 400 spooled with 300 yards of 30 pound Power Pro on an 8 foot
graphite rod, rated for 12-25 pounds, with a medium/fast action. On the
kayak I have caught more halibut on this set up than any other.
The next tip is to always use high quality swivels, leader material, and
hooks. A ball bearing swivel between the Spectra and your leader will
greatly reduce line twists from spinning lures, bait, and bass. Always
use high quality monofilament leader material such as Maxima or a
co-polymers line like the Yozuri Hybrid; pure fluorocarbon line abrades
too easily. Contrary to what many believe, I have never found halibut to
be line shy and have been bitten off by their sharp teeth while using 25
pound line. I would highly recommend using at least 15 pound leader in
shallow water and at least 20 pound in deeper water; better yet, use 25
or 30 pound leader. Only limit yourself to a line test that you will be
able to brake off if you become snagged. Depending on the stability of
your kayak, and your experience, this will be 15-30 pound line. Trust
me, they WILL bite it and when you hook a trophy you will not loose the
battle to their sharp teeth. This will also aid in releasing sub-legal
halibut as they can be pulled to the kayak by the heavy leader without
the need of a net to retrieve your hook or lure. Please handle the
shorts with care so that they can become trophies some day!
High quality hooks can also make a big difference when bait fishing.
A high quality J-style hook works the best with Spectra, and in a pinch
even a treble hook will work; circle hooks are not appropriate for
Spectra line. Circle hooks need a slow set to find the corner of the
mouth; this is why you do NOT set the hook with a circle hook. Spectra
has no stretch and thus gives almost instantaneous hook sets, it does
not work well with this style hook. The size of J-style hook to use
depends on the size of your bait. #1 or #2 hooks work for small baits
like anchovies, 1/0 or 2/0 for medium size bait like sardines, 2/0 to
4/0 for larger size baits such as mackerel or squid. Hook fin baits
through the nose, and squid through the tip of their mantle, in order to
give them a natural look while being pulled through the water. Use high
quality J-hooks and don't "feed" the bait to a biting fish, you
will hook the fish in the mouth or lip every time.
Now that we have the basics, back to the secret of locating the "zone".
As previously mentioned, the trick to finding halibut in an open sandy
area is to cover ground and there is no better way to cover ground than
trolling. This is a method of fishing for halibut that is often
overlooked and underutilized. Trolling on the bottom will allow you to
cover a lot of ground in a short period of time until you find a zone or
pick off an individual fish. For live bait, the dropper loop set up
discussed earlier works great for trolling; more weight is needed to
keep the bait down as you paddle. While live bait works well for this
application, lures can be even more effective. Here is the way to set it
up: start with a heavy duty three-way swivel, attach your Spectra
mainline to one ring and a 4-5 foot leader 25 or 30 pound to another,
this is where you attach your favorite lure. The final ring of the
three-way swivel is used to attach a 12-24 inch line for the sinker; the
trick here is to use lighter line than the leader used from the
three-way to the lure so that if the sinker snags, it can break off and
hopefully save a precious lure. Save yourself some frustration by adding
a snap swivel to the end of each line so that lures and sinkers can be
easily changed. Next, you will need some heavy lead and to pick a good
lure. The amount of weight used will depend on the depth at which you
are fishing and the speed at which you are paddling. Sinkers for
trolling will range from 4 ounces to one pound, yes, one pound, which
will let you troll in and up to 90 feet of water. Spend time to find
which lure works for you; remember that it does not need much, if any,
weight nor does it need to be a deep diving lure. The three-way rig will
keep your lure just above the bottom at all times, the lure just needs
to have an appealing action. I would suggest trying very shallow diving
minnow type crank baits that either float or suspends but the
possibilities are endless. A good speed to troll is between 1 and 2 mph;
keep the kayak moving and slowly drop the rig to the bottom to avoid
tangling. This will take practice, but once you get it down it is very
rewarding!
Halibut are literally the hardest fish I know to land on the kayak. They
typically do not completely tire in the water but rather save the rest
of their energy for when they are in the boat. DO NOT UNDERESTIMATE ANY
HALIBUT, they are toothy creatures made of pure muscle! The key to
landing them is to be prepared. While a good knife and a billy club will
certainly help, a sharp gaff and a stringer/tether is a must! A dive
clip like spear fisherman use will work well to tether your fish. Better
yet, a thin diameter rope with a metal ring tied to one end and a stick
or rod attached to the other will work great for stringing a fish
through its mouth and out its gills with the rod, then through the metal
ring. For a gaff I prefer one with at least 3 foot handle to better
reach the fish as well as to better choose the right spot to gaff them.
The most important part of gaffing is to place the gaff accurately just
behind the head and hit them hard. It does not matter if you get them on
the belly or shoulder side just long as you get them just behind the
collar and get the gaff to penetrate all the way through,. When gaffed
well in this area, halibut will lay completely paralyzed giving you the
time needed to pull the fish NEXT to the kayak. Be certain to set your
rod down in a secure location so that if the fish is lost you will not
loose your rod. Now get a stringer through its mouth and out its gills
ASAP! This process can be tricky with only one hand, but that is all you
will have available since the other will be holding the fish on the gaff
NEXT to the kayak. Try to be smooth in your actions and not ruff up the
fish or damage its gills too much or it may just wake up! Your fish is
not caught until it is tied securely to the kayak in some way. If you
use a dive clip it should be tethered to the kayak, if you use a rope
tie it directly to the kayak. A small dock cleat mounted to the kayak
will provide a secure place to attach a rope, and it only takes one hand
to do it. If it is a big fish, use two stringers if you have them, I do,
as well as two gaffs for the trophies. The next job is to dispatch the
fish BEFORE you bring it onto the kayak. The best way to do this is to
cut the gills while it is still in the water and on both the gaff and
the stringer. After they have stopped bleeding, and before you bring
them aboard, give the big ones a few good thumps on the head. Bring them
on board carefully; they still might come alive with a vengeance. Do not
rush, be safe, and take care of that precious meat! Good luck, I hope
you find your trophy.
Things to remember:
Keep you lure in the strike zone, the bottom.
Sand patches next to structure are halibut havens.
Use Spectra mainline
Use high quality, sharp hooks!
Use high quality leader, and don't go light!
Use light drag pressure and tire the fish
Cover ground
Use lure colors that mimic your local baits.
Use white or glow scampi, when there are squid around. Don't forget the squid strip!
Big baits = big fish
When the spawn is on, fish shallow.
When the Grunion run, fish shallow.
In the winter, fish deep.
Rising water temperature get halibut active.
The better the water visibility the further you can fish off the bottom.
Try different depths and find the depth "zone", try anywhere from 5-120 feet.
If you find a concentration of bait you will find fish near by.
Be prepared to land your trophy! |